The Northwest Beer Guide
The Northwest Beer Guide
a craft beer advocate for independently owned beer

Experience Orcas Island

image sourced, via Creative Commons 2.0, from Keith Kendrick

image sourced, via Creative Commons 2.0, from Keith Kendrick

As the philosopher and psychologist William James once said, “We are like islands in the sea, separate on the surface but connected in the deep”. 

As human beings, we yearn for adventure. For some, that adventure lies in the aisles of the nearest grocery or convenience store. For others, it’s a hike in the hills, a stroll through green grass and woodland creature-accented trees. While for those who live and visit the Pacific Northwest, it can be a ferry ride to a distant island or shore.

For this writer, our adventure begins within the archipelago known as the San Juan Islands.

Why we came to Orcas Island - Hops on the Rock

With nearly 15-years of experience, covering the brewing industry, it should be of no surprise that I was drawn to Orcas Island for, of all things, a beer festival. Now in its third year (as of 2019), Hops on the Rock is a celebration of fermentation, paired with over 400 of your closest 'friends', with a dash of food, and music. Started in 2016, Hops on the Rock is an example of local businesses, public servants, and longtime residents collaborating to draw attention to a period when Oras Island might otherwise get overlooked as a destination. 

Getting there

By ferry, personal watercraft, seaplane, or yes on the backs of deers and bears, there are multiple ways to arrive at Orcas Island. For the purpose of this guide, we will focus on the most direct route from Anacortes, Seattle, or Bellingham.

Washington State Ferry. 1 (888) 808-7977. 2100 Ferry Terminal Rd, Anacortes, WA 98221.

Enacted by the Washington State legislature, in 2009, the Anacortes Ferry Terminal requires vehicles and their passengers, have a reservation prior to arrival. Vehicles, without a reservation, can be placed in standby status but this does not guarantee immediate passage. Those who secure boarding can anticipate a one-way tour of approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes from Anacortes to Orcas Island. For more information, call or visit the Washington State Department of Transportation at https://www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries

Kenmore Air Seaplane. 1 (866) 435-9524

Departing Seattle's South Lake Union and Kenmore's Lake Washington, passengers willing to spend more than a $40 WSF reservation can travel by air, arriving at Rosario's Resort in Orcas Island's Eastsound. For more information call or visit Kenmore Air's website at https://www.kenmoreair.com/destinations/san-juan-islands

image, Sunrise in Anacortes, sourced via Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Where to stay

Hotels or Motels

Bed & Breakfast

Vacation Rental

Where we stayed, Seastar Lofts.

Located, along Eastsound's 'Main Street' Seastar Lofts provides guests with their choice of configurations, ranging from the comfortable [configuration] to the [configuration]. For my stay, I took advantage of the [name] room which included vaulted-ceilings, a private patio for two, a natural-gas-fired barbecue, a full kitchen, combination bathtub and shower, and a king-sized bed. Oh, and a spacious living room, complete with natural-gas-fired fireplace and big screen TV doesn't hurt. At $175 in the off-season and $275 in the Summer/high-season season, the Seastar Loft is minutes from nearby cafes, restaurants, and shopping.

Where to eat

Surrounded by the fertile waters of the Pacific Ocean, Orcas Island shares waterways with a plethora of salmon, lingcod, rockfish, halibut, cabezon, flounder, greenling. In addition to fish, the surrounding waterways are home to numerous species of oysters, clams, scallops, and mussels. Should you require more turf than surf, the island of Orcas is home to deer as well as local livestock. When reviewing a menu, consider the source if this is important to you be it from the ocean's bounty or from a nearby farm.

Breakfast

Depending on the time of the year, the following options are your best bet for breakfast ranging from the simple continental to the 'farmer's' breakfast.

Coffee, Espresso, or Tea

We we had breakfast and coffee, Brown Bear Baking Company.

Located less than 100 feet from my accommodations, the Brown Bear Baking Company is a bakery that caters to the cafe crowd with made-from-scratch, French-inspired pastries, fresh-baked bread, granola, paired with traditional European espresso-based drinks. Owned by David Ellertsen and Lee Highlands Horswill, the bakery is the reality of David and Lee's dream to open a bakery.  

During my initial visit, I was amazed by the volume of options ranging from the savory Croque Monsieur to the rewarding Agapompi Bar (a dessert featuring chocolate, walnut, butterscotch, & coconut). On the first day, I took to the Sticky Bun with a loving affection as I watched each fork incision disappear into the flesh of the roll. On the second day, right when the doors opened, I selected the Croque Monsieur for breakfast, enjoying each bite while simultaneously guarding my sandwich against prying eyes. Paired with Victrola-roasted coffee, I could see why locals and tourists alike appreciate the hard work of Ellertsen and Highlands' dedication to baking.

Lunch

Where we ate, The Lower Tavern.

Just a short half-block from Eastsound’s main street, the Lower Tavern is a favorite of locals and the carefree visitor looking less for New American dining and something a little less complicated. Make no mistake, by some standards one might consider this a “dive” if you’re standards require a jacket and tie. Reviewing the current menu (2019), The Lower Tavern features a wide-range of tavern-familiar appetizers, such as Onion Rings and Jalapeno Poppers, soups, salads, sandwiches including “The Famous Lower Burger”, and an assortment of seafood including two beer-battered fish options as well as clam strips, and prawns. 

Owned by Jim Passer and managed by Lisa Crowe, one can expect to find an accommodating bar top, surrounded by an army of tables and chairs. Open many days from 11 am and closing around 2 am, depending on both the day and the season (Fall/Winter versus Spring/Summer).

During our stay, weI took advantage of the menu’s Clam Strips and Guinness-Battered Cod, in your choice of 2, 3, or 4-pieces paired with fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce. 

As far as drinks go, the bar features draft and canned beer from local, regional, and domestic breweries. In addition, the Tavern also features wine and cider for those with allergies or inclinations towards something on the vine or the branch. During our visit we took advantage of nearby brewery San Juan Island Brewing Company by pairing a Black Boar Porter with our Fish & Chips and Clam Strips.

Dinner

Where we ate, New Leaf Cafe at the Outlook Inn.

As the evening concludes, one cannot resist dipping into the stream of memories inspired by countless Hollywood films or a personal memory, seeking that perfect memory of a sunset over the water, succumbing to the heavy curtain of the night. If this sounds like you, then you’ll enjoy the opportunity to dine at New Leaf Cafe located inside the Outlook Inn, as you stare out beyond Fishing Bay as it escapes out into the Eastsound. 

Started in 2001, after both saw their lives upended by the collapse of the “Dotcom” era, Sara and Adam Farish abandoned their life in California to return to Orcas Island where they grew up. For the couple, their return and successful stewardship of this unique cafe and inn, represents another example of the San Juan Islands ability to encourage locals to explore the world before returning home, to restore the balance of the island’s history. 

Either as a guest of the Outlook Inn or as an intermediate stop on your towards home, the New Leaf Cafe provides an opportunity to snack, gorge, or nightcap with a thought out menu of locally-sourced ingredients, from farms, bays, coves, distilleries, wineries, and breweries throughout the region. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during the high season of Spring and  Summer.

For this nostalgic sap, looking for an opportunity to stare out towards Fishing Bay as the sun’s horizon fades against the silhouette of nearby Indian Island, was the nourishment required for my mind and body. 

Reviewing the list of options, ranging from locally-sourced oysters from farms around the San Juan Island, including nearby Judd Cove. Complemented with a made from scratch martini called the “Party Cat”, made with smoky mezcal, sweet-tart grapefruit juice, warmly spiced cardamom bitters, and Prosecco; and we had the making of a wonderful aperitif.

In addition to an aperitif we enjoyed a simple field green salad with white balsamic vinaigrette, a main course of  Clam Pasta, consisting of steamed clams, local Goods turmeric campanelle pasta, citrus, allium butter, and Reggiano Parmesan cheese - paired with a glass of Foris Pinot Gris. For those of you disappointed that we didn’t enjoy something cruelty-free, the restaurant is happy to reward your willingness to eschew meat with a seared cauliflower with melted Golden Glen Creamery cheese curds and warm relish of roasted tomatoes, kalamata olive, evoo, sea salt and lemon. 

The evening nearly concluded, we sought the comforts of a Lemon Cheesecake dessert, complemented with a shot of Cadee Rye Whiskey from Cadee Distillery of Clinton, Washington. 

For us, the New Leaf Cafe ticks all the boxes required for an evening filled with food, drink, and relaxation after a day hiking or walking on Orcas Island.

images from Northwest Beer Guide©.

Clam Pasta at the New Leaf Cafe at The Outlook Inn, image from Northwest Beer Guide©.

Clam Pasta at the New Leaf Cafe at The Outlook Inn, image from Northwest Beer Guide©.

Cheesecake paired with Cadée Rye Whiskey at the New Leaf Cafe at The Outlook Inn, image from Northwest Beer Guide©.

Cheesecake paired with Cadée Rye Whiskey at the New Leaf Cafe at The Outlook Inn, image from Northwest Beer Guide©.

images from Northwest Beer Guide©.

Where to drink

Where we drank, Island Hoppin Brewery, in the afternoon

Located just a few miles from downtown Eastsound is Orcas Islands, first (and only) brewery, Island Hoppin’ Brewery.

First started in 2012 under the stewardship of Becca Gray and Nate Schons, and (the deceased) Jim Parker, Island Hoppin’ introduced the rest of Washington state to beers from the San Juan Islands. With a focus on ‘old school’ American-style ales and lagers, head brewer Nate Schon literally built this brewery from scratch, through his work as handyman. The result is a brewery and taproom that is truly unique, and another fixture on the island’s hospitality scene.

On any day, one can expect to nourish their palates on reds, kolsches, stouts, ambers, and yeah even an india pale ale or two. But for those who’ve not embraced hops and grains, the brewery also showcases guest wines, ciders, and even non-alcoholic beverages. 

Included in your experience, should you wish, the brewery supports BYO (bring your own) food to the brewery. 

For this writer, the attraction to Island Hoppin’ doesn’t require a spirited deductor. In fact, as Island Hoppin’ is the only brewery on the island, we had no problem trying to decide with one to visit! 

Humor aside, we enjoyed Nate’s interpretations of Belgian-style Wit and india pale ale. In fact, we had one of each in proper pint glass.

Open most days, stop into Island Hoppin’ today!

Where we drank, The Barnicle, for a nightcap.

Let us go on record to state that Eastsound and the entire of Orcas Island have a plethora of night capping options for all tastes. Having visited New Leaf Cafe, we can honestly say that one cannot go wrong with the infusions and updated menus inside the tiny lounge of New Leaf. But it’s rare, as a supporter of craft beer, that we find a place that pulls out of the comforts of a pint while relaxing us with something shaken or stirred. For us that place was https://www.facebook.com/pg/BarnacleBar/photos/?ref=page_internal The Barnacle, located in Prune Alley, and apparently many of the residents have taken notice as well. 

Opened in 2013 and powered by the enthusiasm of an enthusiastic film buff, in Jared Lovejoy, The Barnacle has evolved into an oasis for locals who either work behind the bar or in front of it, as well as tourists looking for something subdued and inviting  in atmosphere. What was once a cozy bungalow, is now a bar which many have described as “ecletic”. Now under the ownership of couple Tara Anderson and Michael Cleveland, the Barnacle offers unique and familiar cocktails, live music, and a limited menu featuring tapas from nearby The Kitchen.

From the classic cocktails to seasonal creations, The Barnacle features everything from “We Should Talk”, a cocktail with Gin, Campari, fresh orange, cherry, liqueur, and rose water spritz; inspired by “Marriage Story”; to the classic Manhattan, Old Fashioned, Moscow Mule, Whiskey Sour, or Tom Collins. Beer, cider and wine are also online for those looking for something made by a location or regional brewer, vintner, or cidermaker. 

Paired with your nightcap, you have your option of traditional cheese, flatbread, chocolates, charcuterie, served on flatware. Or if you prefer, the kitchen staff at (well) The Kitchen are happy to provide you with warm tapas, from their menu http://www.thekitchenorcas.com/cafe/. 

Completing this trifecta of nocturnal descent, comes courtesy of The Barnacles curated list of live acts and open mic nights. For more on their live acts, visit their Events page at https://www.facebook.com/pg/BarnacleBar/events/?ref=page_internal. 

There is no better way to unwind, decompress, and prepare for the sad reality that one is leaving the Island, than a night at The Barnacle.


Events or Points of Interest

Hops on the Rocks. November.

Don’t let Hops on the Rocks be your only excuse to visit Orcas Island. Whether this is your first time or your 10th, Ocas and the other islands that make up the San Juan Islands, hope you’ll make the trip soon. As always, we hope our guide is as fun for you to read and it was for us to write. See you on the next ferry ride.

Pursuant to FTC rules, research was sponsored by the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau,. However, our inclusion of these businesses was strictly voluntary and subject to editorial discretion.

Suggested points of interest, food, drink, or lodging was compiled using a score (which is average rating times average quantity of ratings) with the highest being the most important and the lowest being the most undesirable. As always, your individual experience may vary.